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In East
Yorkshire, the chalk forms a crescent, beginning on the River
Humber foreshore at Hessle and terminates in the sheer
sea-cliffs of Flamborough Head. From Hessle, it extends
north-west for 46km and rises to a maximum altitude of 243m.
OD in the vicinity of Wilton Beacon. It then runs eastwards
for a further 46km. Until it reaches the North Sea at
Flamborough.
The arc of chalk has steep west- and
north-facing escarpments, which are particularly pronounced at
the north-west angle where the chalk meets the limestone of
the Howardian Hills. Most of the land on the Wolds is between
50m.- 200m. in elevation, in marked contrast to adjacent
areas. The Vales of Pickering and York, to the north and west
respectively, and Holderness, to the east, are all lower,
wetter, areas, which make the Wolds, from a distance, appear
rather like an island.
The chalk plateau is
dissected, in dendritic fashion, by a distinctive network of
dry valleys, known locally as "dales" or "slacks",
probably created as a result of headward erosion. On the
western side and at the north-west corner of the Wolds, these
valleys are deep and steep-sided; to the south and east, the
land slopes away more gently, and, here, the valleys are
shallower. The largest and broadest of these, forming the
major topographical feature of the northern Wolds, is the
20km. long Great Wold Valley, which runs eastwards from
Wharram-le-Street to Burton Fleming, at which point it turns
southwards to Rudston, and from there eastwards to
Bridlington.
The Great Wold Valley contains the
Gypsey Race, the only, albeit intermittent, surface stream on
the "High Wolds". Although there are springs and
small streams within the overall area, these are principally
concentrated around the edges of the Wolds, where the chalk
meets the clay of the surrounding Lowlands - as in the
Kirkburn-Southburn-Eastburn-Driffield area.
The
underlying solid geology is the Middle and Lower Chalk of the
Creraceous, with some Red Chalk outcropping in those areas
where the chalk and Lower Lias formations abutt; the chalk
rests unconformably on impermeable Kimmeridge and Speeton
clays. The Lower Chalk, without flints, is found on the lower
slopes of the escarpment; the flinty Middle Chalk appears over
the rest of the Wolds.
The chalk of the Yorkshire
Wolds differs from that of the rest of England in general, is
harder than elsewhere, with more marl bands, a different
distribution of flints, and a different scheme of zonation.
There is almost no drift geology on the Wolds.
Deposits resulting from natural erosion and deposition are
limited to the chalk-gravel fills of some valley bases and to
the chalky till around Flamborough and along the eastern edge
of the crescent where the chalk merges with Holderness.
Everywhere,
the chalk base is overlain by generally shallow, well-drained
calcareous soils. Two soil types are predominant
(1)
Lithomorphic soils are characteristic of the higher and
steeper parns of the Wolds. These brown silty rendzina soils
vary in depth, according to the thickness of bess incorporated
into the chalk rubble; and
(2) brown calcareous
soils with clearly developed top soil and subsoil horizons,
form the major soil type on the lower, more gentle, eastern
side of the Wolds.
The presence of clay and sand
deposits in the deeper soils along the dip-slope causes some
drainage problems and seasonal waterlogging.
The
Wolds soils appear to have altered considerably over the last
5,000 years. Barrow excavations have revealed that a thick,
stone-free brown forest soil existed at the time of their
construction, during the Neolithic and Bronze Age. In the
millennia since the Bronze Age, this changed to a thin, dark,
humic soil with a high proportion of chalk rubble and a brown
soil component. Almost certainly, this change occurred as a
result of erosion following the clearance of the once dense
forest cover.
Today, the soils of the Wolds are
permeable and well structured. They dry rapidly and are
cultivable in all seasons; even after rain, they are easily
worked. Despite being so well drained, chalk soils and
subsoils are able to make a good deal of water available to
plants. Particles of chalk absorb moisture while keeping the
soil open, so that the soil has the capacity to retain water
without becoming too sticky for agricultural work.
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